How StashGrid works.
StashGrid starts from a model of your case’s insert and 3D models of real gear. You arrange the gear, and the designer subtracts it from the insert in your browser; what is left is the STL you print. There is no photo tracing and no measuring on your side, which also means it only works for the cases and gear it has models for.
- Wall clearance
- 5 mm
- Pocket entry bevel
- 2 mm deep
- Runs
- In your browser
- Output
- STL per layer
From case to insert
The same Glock factory case layout at each stage, drawn from the designer’s own models:
1. The case profile
The insert outline, with the dashed line 5 mm inside the wall. Gear stays inside it.
2. Gear from the library
Each item is a 3D model of the real part. Lights and optics attach to their mounts.
3. The insert
The gear is subtracted from the insert. What is left is the STL you export.
Case profiles
Each supported case has a 3D model of the insert that sits inside it, with its outline, depth and any cutouts (the Apache 3800’s upper insert has four handle slots, for example). The case page lists each insert’s dimensions from the same file the designer loads, so the numbers on the site and in the designer can’t drift apart.
What we haven’t published yet is how each case interior was measured. That write-up comes with our first test prints. It matters: case makers’ own specs are often drawn from engineering designs rather than finished cases, and many cases have slanted walls. Until then, treat the dimensions as the digital insert and check them against your case.
Gear models
Every item in the library is a 3D model of the real part, not a traced photo or a rectangle. Accessories that attach to a pistol, such as an optic or a weapon light, snap to fixed mount points on it, so a light sits where it would on the rail. The gear page lists every model with its outline and the mounts each pistol accepts.
That is the trade-off with photo-based tools: tracing works for anything you can photograph, but depends on the photo. A model library can’t drift with lighting or lens angle. It also can’t cut a pocket for something it doesn’t have.
How pockets are cut
When you place an item, the designer subtracts its 3D model from the insert using a geometry engine (Manifold) running in your browser. The pocket takes the shape of the model itself: the designer doesn’t add extra clearance around it. Whether a pocket ends up snug or loose depends on the model, your printer’s calibration and your material, which is why we recommend printing a test section.
On most surfaces, pockets get a small bevel at the top edge, 2 mm deep and 1.5 mm wider than the pocket, so gear drops in without catching. The cut extends 3 mm above the surface so it goes cleanly through textured finishes.
What is checked
- Walls. Every item stays at least 5 mm inside the insert’s outer wall and clear of cutouts such as handle slots.
- Mounts. Accessories attach only to mounts that accept them, in the position defined for that pistol.
- Placement. The designer checks each item against the case outline as you move and rotate it.
What isn’t
We would rather say this plainly than bury it:
- Physical fit. We have printed and photographed an insert for the Glock factory case, but we haven’t published measured fit results for any case yet.
- Protection. We haven’t drop-tested printed inserts against foam, so we make no claim either way.
- Your printer. Scale, calibration, material shrinkage and joint fit on split prints are outside what the designer can know.
Those tests are next. Find your case or open the designer.
